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The Secret Oil Change Trick That Keeps Old Engines Running Smooth
Sep 18, 2025
In this video, I reveal the exact oil change process that can extend engine life from 150K to 300K+ miles. These aren't internet hacks - they're proven techniques used by professional mechanics for decades. 🎯 KEY TOPICS COVERED: ✅ The 7-step professional oil change method ✅ Oil viscosity selection guide ✅ Synthetic vs conventional truth ✅ High-mileage engine considerations ✅ Advanced diagnostic techniques ✅ Cost analysis and money-saving tips ✅ Seasonal adjustment strategies ✅ Complete troubleshooting guide 🛠️ Recommended Tools: ✅Throttle Body Cleaner WD-40 (https://amzn.to/4n317gu) ✅Car OBD2 Scanner (https://amzn.to/4o2bhz1) ✅Torque Wrench (https://amzn.to/3IG5e2T) ✅Digital Multimeter (https://amzn.to/3GR24ce) ✅Creeper or Rolling Seat (https://amzn.to/3UqRonH) ✅Engine Oil 5W-30 (https://amzn.to/40y4sLC) ✅Fuel Injector Cleaner (https://amzn.to/4oaJlcv)
View Video Transcript
0:00
What if I told you that 97% of car
0:02
owners are slowly destroying their
0:04
engines every single oil change, not
0:07
because they're using bad oil, but
0:09
because they're missing five critical
0:11
steps that take literally minutes, but
0:13
can add decades to your engine's life.
0:15
I'm about to show you the exact process
0:17
I've used for 20 years to keep vehicles
0:20
running past 400,000 mi, including the
0:23
30-cond step that most people skip that
0:25
causes more engine damage than driving
0:27
with old oil. And if you stick around to
0:29
the end, I'll reveal the $12 upgrade
0:31
that's basically insurance for your
0:33
engine. But first, hit that subscribe
0:35
button. 73% of people who watch our
0:38
videos aren't subscribed. And you don't
0:39
want to miss the follow-up video where I
0:41
show you how to diagnose engine problems
0:43
just by looking at your oil, the
0:45
foundation. Why most oil changes fail.
0:48
Here's what happens inside your engine
0:50
every single day. Your oil doesn't just
0:52
sit there. It's working harder than a
0:54
marathon runner. It's lubricating
0:56
thousands of metal parts, moving at
0:57
incredible speeds, absorbing heat that
0:59
could literally melt steel, and trapping
1:02
microscopic debris that would otherwise
1:04
destroy your engine. But here's the
1:06
problem most people don't understand.
1:08
Oil doesn't just get dirty and need
1:10
replacing. It chemically breaks down.
1:12
The molecules literally fall apart under
1:14
pressure and heat. The average driver
1:17
changes their oil every 7,500 miles and
1:19
thinks they're being responsible, but
1:21
they're making three critical mistakes
1:23
that are costing them thousands. They
1:25
drain cold oil, leaving 15 to 20% of
1:28
contaminated oil behind. They ignore the
1:30
pre-F filter step, causing dry starts
1:32
every time. They use the wrong oil
1:35
specification for their driving
1:36
conditions. I've torn down hundreds of
1:39
engines, and I can tell you exactly how
1:40
each vehicle was maintained just by
1:43
looking inside. Want to see what a
1:44
100,000 mi of regular oil changes looks
1:47
like versus the method I'm about to show
1:49
you? All right, let's get our hands
1:51
dirty. Here's the exact process that
1:52
separates amateur oil changes from
1:54
professionalgrade maintenance. I'm going
1:56
to walk you through each step, explain
1:58
why it matters, and show you the
2:00
mistakes that even some quick loop shops
2:02
make. Step one, the warm-up ritual.
2:05
First rule, never, and I mean never,
2:07
change cold oil. Run your engine for
2:09
exactly 5 to 7 minutes. long enough to
2:12
warm the oil, but not so long that
2:14
everything's dangerously hot. Why? Warm
2:17
oil is like honey versus maple syrup. It
2:19
flows faster, carries more contaminants
2:21
with it, and leaves less residue behind.
2:24
This single step removes 25% more
2:27
contaminated oil than a cold drain. Step
2:29
two, the pre- drain inspection. Before
2:31
you touch anything, get under there with
2:33
a flashlight and look around. Check for
2:35
oil leaks, obviously. Damaged drain plug
2:38
or oil pan, previous mechanics mistakes,
2:40
like stripped threads. Here's a pro tip
2:42
most people miss. Look at your drain
2:44
plug when you remove it. See those metal
2:46
shavings? That's normal wear. But if
2:48
there's much more than last time, your
2:49
engine's trying to tell you something.
2:51
Step three, the critical drain
2:53
technique. Position your drain pan
2:55
slightly off center toward the front of
2:56
the car. Why? Because when you first
2:58
remove the plug, oil shoots out in an
3:00
arc, then changes direction as the flow
3:02
slows down. And here's where most people
3:04
screw up. They drain for maybe 5 minutes
3:07
and call it good. You need 15 minimum. I
3:10
like to clean up other things while it's
3:11
draining. Now, here's the secret sauce.
3:13
Once the main flow stops, add about half
3:16
a quart of fresh oil through the filler
3:18
cap. Let it run through and drain out.
3:20
This pushes out that last bit of
3:22
contaminated oil hiding in passages and
3:24
corners. Step four, the filter game
3:27
changer. Oil filters aren't just oil
3:29
filters. They're the kidneys of your
3:30
engine, but most people treat them like
3:32
an afterthought. First, filter quality
3:35
matters more than you think. A cheap
3:36
filter has maybe 5,000 square in of
3:39
filter media. A premium filter, over
3:41
12,000. That's more than double the
3:43
filtering capacity. Before installing
3:46
the new filter, wipe the mounting
3:47
surface clean and check for the old
3:49
rubber gasket. I've seen double gasket
3:51
installations that dumped all the oil in
3:53
the first 30 seconds. Coat the new
3:56
gasket with a thin layer of oil. Install
3:58
handtight. Then just three quarters turn
4:00
more with a filter wrench.
4:01
Overtightening crushes the gasket and
4:03
guarantees leaks. Step five, the refill
4:06
strategy. Here's where patience pays
4:09
off. Start with about 75% of the
4:11
recommended oil capacity. Check the
4:13
level, add a little more, check again.
4:16
Why not fill it all at once? Because oil
4:18
takes time to settle in. Add too much
4:20
too fast and you'll overfill. Overfilled
4:22
oil gets whipped into foam by the
4:24
crankshaft and foam doesn't lubricate.
4:26
Step six, the startup sequence. Start
4:28
the engine and watch your oil pressure
4:30
gauge or warning light. It should build
4:32
pressure within 5 to 10 seconds. If it
4:34
takes longer, shut it down immediately.
4:37
You might have a problem. Let it idle
4:39
for about 2 minutes, then shut it off
4:41
and wait another 5 minutes. Check the
4:43
level again and top off if needed. This
4:45
is normal. The new filter holds oil,
4:47
too. Step seven, the final inspection.
4:50
Take a final look under the car for
4:51
leaks. A few drops are normal for the
4:54
first day as residual oil on threads and
4:56
gaskets works its way out. But if you're
4:58
seeing steady drips, something's wrong.
5:00
Write down the date, mileage, oil type,
5:02
and filter brand on a sticker and put it
5:04
somewhere you'll see it. Your future
5:06
self will thank you. Choosing the right
5:08
oil. It's more complex than you think.
5:11
Now, let's talk about what actually goes
5:12
in your engine because this is where
5:14
most people either save money in the
5:15
wrong place or waste money on
5:17
unnecessary upgrades. The viscosity
5:20
decode. When you see 5W30, here's what
5:23
it actually means. The 5W is how thick
5:26
the oil is cold. W stands for winter.
5:28
Lower numbers flow better in cold
5:30
weather. The 30 is the thickness when
5:32
hot. Your engine was designed for
5:34
specific oil thickness. Use thicker oil
5:36
and you'll lose fuel economy and maybe
5:39
damage seals. Use thinner oil and you
5:41
won't get proper protection under load.
5:43
Conventional versus synthetic. The
5:45
truth. Here's what 20 years of engine
5:48
tearowns has taught me. Synthetic oil
5:50
isn't always worth the extra cost, but
5:52
in three situations, it's absolutely
5:54
critical. Turbo engines, the oil has to
5:57
handle extreme heat from the
5:59
turbocharger. Stop and go driving.
6:01
Synthetic handles temperature swings
6:02
better. Extended drain intervals. If
6:05
you're going 7,500 plus miles between
6:07
changes, regular oil starts breaking
6:09
down around 240° F. Full synthetic, it
6:12
can handle 300° plus. In a turbo engine,
6:15
that difference prevents total oil
6:17
breakdown. The high mileage decision.
6:20
Once you hit 100,000 miles, high mileage
6:22
oil isn't just marketing. It contains
6:24
seal conditioners that can actually
6:26
restore flexibility to aging rubber
6:28
seals and reduce leaks. But here's the
6:31
catch. If your engine doesn't leak, now
6:33
regular oil is fine. High mileage oil is
6:35
insurance, not a requirement. Advanced
6:37
tips that separate pros from amateurs.
6:40
The magnetic drain plug upgrade. For
6:42
about $15, you can upgrade to a magnetic
6:44
drain plug that collects metal particles
6:46
as they circulate through your oil. It's
6:48
like an early warning system for engine
6:50
problems. Normal wear creates fine metal
6:53
dust. But if you start seeing larger
6:55
particles or significantly more buildup,
6:57
you're getting advanced notice of
6:59
bearing or internal wear issues. The oil
7:02
analysis game changer. Want to know
7:04
exactly what's happening inside your
7:06
engine? Oil analysis kits let you send a
7:08
sample to a lab for about $30. You'll
7:10
get a report showing wear metals, which
7:12
parts are wearing, additive levels, how
7:15
much life your oil has left, and
7:17
contamination, fuel, coolant, dirt. This
7:20
is what fleet managers use to prevent
7:21
breakdowns. Now, it's available for
7:23
regular drivers. The cold weather
7:25
protocol. If you live somewhere with
7:27
real winter, your oil change strategy
7:29
needs to adapt. Conventional oil turns
7:32
to molasses below 0° F. Even 5W oil can
7:35
take 30 plus seconds to circulate. The
7:38
solution is to either switch to ZW oil
7:40
in winter or install a block heater.
7:42
Most engine wear happens in the first 30
7:44
seconds after a cold start. The turbo
7:47
cool down rule. If you drive a turbo
7:49
car, never shut off the engine
7:51
immediately after highway driving. The
7:53
turbo can be spinning 100,000 RPM and
7:56
needs oil circulation to cool down. Idle
7:58
for 60 to 90 seconds or install a turbo
8:01
timer. Troubleshooting. When things go
8:03
wrong, even with perfect technique,
8:05
problems can happen. Here's how to
8:07
diagnose and fix the most common oil
8:09
change issues. Leak diagnosis. Not all
8:12
leaks are created equal. Small drops
8:14
after oil change. Normal usually stops
8:16
within 24 hours. Steady dripping.
8:18
Overtightened or undertightened drain
8:20
plug. Large puddles. Double gasket on
8:23
filter or severely damaged oil pan.
8:25
Always check your old filter's gasket
8:27
came off with it. If it's still stuck to
8:29
the engine, you've got a guaranteed
8:31
massive leak. Oil pressure problems. If
8:34
your oil pressure warning light comes on
8:35
after an oil change, check level
8:37
immediately. You might be low. Look for
8:39
leaks. Something's draining fast. Wrong
8:41
oil viscosity. Too thick or too thin.
8:44
Never drive with the oil pressure light
8:46
on. It's not a suggestion. It's a
8:47
countdown to engine destruction. The
8:50
overfill fix. Overfilled oil creates
8:52
foam and foam doesn't lubricate. If
8:54
you've overfilled, drain the excess
8:56
immediately. Check for foam on the
8:58
dipstick. If there's foam, consider
9:00
changing the oil completely. The
9:02
money-saving breakdown. Let's talk
9:04
numbers because doing this right
9:05
actually saves money longterm. Cost per
9:08
mile analysis. DIY premium method is $45
9:12
per change divided by 7500 m is 0.006
9:16
per mile. Quick loop standard is $35 per
9:19
change divided by 5,000 mi is 0.07 per
9:22
mile. Plus better protection, longer
9:25
engine life, and higher resale value.
9:27
Factor in that proper maintenance can
9:29
extend engine life from 150,000 to
9:31
$300,000 plus miles, and you're looking
9:34
at potentially avoiding an 8,000
9:36
to$12,000 engine replacement. The tool
9:39
investment, onetime tool costs, quality
9:41
drain pan, $25. Filter wrench set, $20.
9:45
Funnel, $8. Jack and stands $150.
9:48
Magnetic drain plug $15. Total initial
9:51
investment $218. Break even point about
9:54
six oil changes. Here's the bottom line.
9:57
Your engine is probably the most
9:58
expensive single component in your
10:00
vehicle. Treating oil changes like a
10:02
quick chore instead of preventative
10:03
maintenance is like ignoring chest pain
10:06
because you're busy. If this video just
10:08
saved you from a catastrophic engine
10:09
failure, smash that like button and
10:11
subscribe. We post new automotive
10:13
content.
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