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What if I told you the difference
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between a 100,000mi engine and an
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800,000mi engine isn't luck, brand, or
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price tag. It's these 15 specific habits
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that most drivers completely ignore. I'm
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about to share the exact maintenance
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philosophy that's kept my daily driver
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running strong for over 800,000 mi. And
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it all starts with understanding one
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critical truth. Most engine deaths are
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100% preventable. The millionmile
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mindset. Listen, I've been turning
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wrenches professionally for over 25
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years, and I've seen perfectly good
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engines destroyed by simple ignorance.
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But I've also witnessed miracle machines
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that just refuse to quit. And there's
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always a pattern. The automotive
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industry wants you to believe that
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engines naturally wear out around
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150,000 mi. That's complete nonsense.
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With the right approach, your engine
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should easily cross the half million
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mark, and many can push well beyond
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800,000 m. Today, we're diving deep into
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the 15 non-negotiable habits that
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separate the millionm legends from the
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scrapyard statistics. Habit number 15,
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the first mile rule. Let's start with
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the most critical 60 seconds of your
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engine's day, the cold start. Here's
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what most people get catastrophically
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wrong. Your engine oil at 20° Fahrenheit
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has the consistency of honey. At 10°
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Fahrenheit, it's basically molasses.
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When you fire up that engine, you're
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asking precision machinery to operate
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with virtually zero lubrication for the
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first crucial seconds. Here's my first
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mile rule. Start your engine. Let it
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idle for exactly 45 seconds. No more, no
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less. This gives oil time to circulate,
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but doesn't waste fuel. Then drive like
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your grandmother is in the passenger
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seat for the first mile. No hard
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acceleration, no high RPMs, no sudden
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loads. Your oil needs to reach at least
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180° F before it can properly protect
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your engine. Rush this process and
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you're literally grinding away years of
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engine life with every cold morning.
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Habit number 14, the 3,000mi
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controversy. Now, let's talk about the
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most debated topic in automotive
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maintenance, oil change intervals. The
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marketing departments want you believing
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10,000 mi is fine. Let me show you why
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that's expensive thinking. I don't care
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if you're running the most expensive
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synthetic oil on the planet. Here's my
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proven interval system. First oil change
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at exactly 1,000 mi to flush
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manufacturing debris. After that, every
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4,000 mi or 4 months, whichever comes
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first, your manual says 7,500 m. Your
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manual was written by lawyers and
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marketing teams, not the engineers who
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built your engine. Those engineers, they
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change their personal vehicles every
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3,000 4,000 mi. Here's a simple test.
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Next oil change, save a sample in a
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clear jar. Check it at 3,000 mi, then
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You'll see exactly when that oil stops
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protecting and starts destroying. Habit
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number 13, the filter investigation.
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This habit separates the amateurs from
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the professionals. Every single oil
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change, I cut open the old filter and
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examine the pleat with a flashlight.
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Sounds extreme. This 2-minute inspection
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can predict engine failure months in
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advance. What am I looking for? Metal
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particles, excessive carbon buildup, or
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that telltale bronze shimmer that
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indicates bearing wear. Find these early
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and you can address problems before they
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become catastrophes. I once found
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aluminum particles in a customer's
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filter. Turned out to be early piston
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wear. That $30 inspection saved him a
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$6,000 engine rebuild because we caught
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it early and adjusted his driving
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habits. Take photos of your filter pleat
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over time. Pattern recognition is
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everything in preventive maintenance.
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Habit number 12, the viscosity
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precision. Let's destroy the biggest oil
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myth in automotive history. that close
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enough works with oil viscosity. Your
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engine was designed with mathematical
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precision and oil viscosity is part of
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that equation. When your manual
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specifies 5W30, that's not a suggestion.
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It's engineering. The 5W determines cold
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flow characteristics affecting startup
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protection. The 30 controls high
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temperature viscosity impacting
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everything from oil pressure to fuel
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economy. Use 10W40 instead of 5W30.
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Congratulations, you've just increased
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startup wear and stressed your oil pump.
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Go thinner with 0W20 in an engine
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designed for 5W30. Now you're risking
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oil consumption and high temperature
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protection. I've seen engines with
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200,000 mi that look brand new inside
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because the owner never deviated from
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the specified oil. I've also seen
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50,000mi engines destroyed because
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someone thought all oil is the same.
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Habit number 11, the leak detective.
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Here's some hard truth. There's no such
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thing as an acceptable oil leak. That
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minor seep you're ignoring is a ticking
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time bomb with a lit fuse. I once
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tracked a customer who ignored a $15
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valve cover gasket leak. 6 months later,
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timing belt replacement after oil soaked
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belt slipped and destroyed the engine.
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That small leak cost him 280 times the
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original repair. Every month, spend 5
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minutes under your car with a
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flashlight. Look for wet spots, crusty
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buildup, or that telltale rainbow
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shimmer in your driveway. Smell burning
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oil during drives? That's leaked oil
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hitting hot exhaust components. Modern
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engines also consume oil internally,
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especially turbocharged models. While
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you're playing detective with external
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leaks, your oil level is dropping
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internally. By the time your oil light
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illuminates, you're already critically
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low. Fix leaks immediately. Check your
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oil level weekly. Your engine will thank
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you with decades of reliable service.
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Habit number 10, the temperature dance.
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Now, let's talk about the delicate
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temperature dance that keeps your engine
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alive. Most drivers think warmed up
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means the temperature gauge reached
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normal. That's only half the story. Your
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coolant might hit 190° F in 5 minutes,
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but your oil needs 15 to 20 minutes to
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reach optimal operating temperature of
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220° F. Until then, you're running on
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compromised lubrication. Here's my
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temperature protocol. After your
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45-second idle and gentle first mile,
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gradually increase your driving
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intensity over the next 10 minutes. No
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wide openen throttle, no heavy loads, no
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high RPMs until everything is fully
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warmed. This is especially critical for
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turbocharged engines. Those turbos spin
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at 150,000 plus RPM and generate
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tremendous heat. Shock them with
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immediate hard driving and you're
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looking at premature turbo failure.
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Patient warm-up isn't old school
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thinking, it's precision engineering.
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Respect the temperature dance and your
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engine will reward you with longevity.
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Habit number nine, the idle trap. Here's
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where things get counterintuitive. I
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just told you to warm up your engine,
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but excessive idling is equally
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destructive. Let me explain this
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critical balance. Extended idling
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prevents your engine from reaching
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optimal combustion temperatures.
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Incomplete fuel burn creates carbon
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deposits on intake valves. Particularly
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problematic with direct injection
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engines found in modern Hond's, Toyotas,
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and German vehicles. During prolonged
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idle, oil pressure remains low, starving
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upper engine components like cam shafts
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and lifters of proper lubrication. Over
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months, this causes premature wear and
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sludge accumulation. Remote start idling
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for 20 minutes in winter, you're
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creating problems. Summer AC idling for
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30 minutes. Same issue, the solution. 45
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to 60 seconds of idle, then drive gently
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until fully warmed. Modern engines need
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load and RPM variation to maintain
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internal cleanliness. Gentle driving
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accomplishes warm up faster and
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healthier than extended idling. Habit
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number eight, the $12 savior. Let me
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introduce you to a $12 part that can
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prevent $3,000 in damage, the PCV valve.
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Most drivers have never heard of it,
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which is exactly why engines fail
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prematurely. PCV stands for positive
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crankcase ventilation. This little valve
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manages pressure and gases from your
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engine's crank case, routing them back
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through the intake to be burned. Simple
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concept, catastrophic consequences when
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it fails. When your PCV valve clogs, and
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it will clog, I've seen engines where
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neglected PCV valves created sludge so
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thick it looked like chocolate pudding.
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I've also diagnosed mysterious oil leaks
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that traced back to a $12 PCV valve
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stuck open, creating vacuum leaks.
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Replace your PCV valve every 40,000 m or
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whenever you notice unusual oil
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consumption, random oil leaks, or rough
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idle. 5 minutes of work, $12 in parts,
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thousands in prevention. Habit number
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seven, the sensor that kills
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performance. If your car feels sluggish,
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drinks fuel like a pickup truck, or
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idles rough, chances are you've ignored
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this critical sensor for years. The mass
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air flow sensor, and cleaning it costs
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under $10. Your MOF sensor measures
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incoming air volume, so your engine
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computer can calculate proper fuel
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delivery. When contaminated with dust,
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oil vapors, and grime, it provides false
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readings that throw off your entire fuel
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system. I've watched customers spend
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hundreds replacing spark plugs, ignition
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coils, and fuel injectors when a $8 can
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of math cleaner and 10 minutes would
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have solved everything. Here's the
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proper cleaning procedure. Disconnect
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the sensor, remove it carefully, spray
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with dedicated math cleaner. Never use
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brake cleaner or carburetor spray. Let
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it air dry completely, then reinstall.
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Don't touch the sensing wires. They're
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extremely delicate. Clean your MAF
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sensor every 15,000 mi or sooner if you
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drive in dusty conditions or use oiled
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air filters. This simple maintenance can
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improve fuel economy by 10 15% and
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restore lost performance. Habit number
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six, the breathing system. Your engine
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breathes air just like you do, and
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feeding it through a clogged or inferior
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filter is like asking an athlete to
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perform while breathing through a straw.
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A contaminated air filter restricts air
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flow, killing performance, and
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disrupting the precise air fuel mixture
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your engine needs. This leads to reduced
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fuel economy, sluggish throttle
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response, and carbon buildup on intake
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valves. I've extracted air filters that
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looked like crime scenes, literally
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containing mouse nests, seeds,
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insulation, and debris that would
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destroy any engine if it got through.
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Those $5 bargain filters don't seal
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properly, allowing dust and sand,
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literal engine killers, to bypass
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filtration. Run that long enough and
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you're grinding down piston rings and
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cylinder walls with every mile. Stick to
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quality brands, OEM filters, Wix, Fram,
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Ultra, properly maintained KN&N or
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Bosch. Replace every 20,000 mi or sooner
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in dusty environments. Hold your filter
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up to a light. If you can't see light
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through it, replacement time has
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arrived. Habit number five, the ignition
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foundation. Your engine is only as good
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as the spark that ignites the fuel. And
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cheapening out on spark plugs is like
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building a mansion on a sand foundation.
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Spark plugs don't just create ignition,
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they control combustion timing, burn
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efficiency, and emission levels. Install
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inferior plugs, and you're inviting
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misfires, poor fuel economy, and
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long-term engine damage. I've diagnosed
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mysterious engine knocks that traced
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back to $3 gas station spark plugs,
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swapped in proper NGK, Denso, or OEM
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plugs, and the engine ran like new. The
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customer saved $2,000 in unnecessary
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diagnostic work. Modern engines require
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platinum or aridium tipped plugs
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designed for their specific compression
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ratios and ignition timing. These last
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60,000 to 100,000 miles and maintain
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consistent performance throughout their
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life. Always gap plugs to specification
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unless they're pregapped from the
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factory. Avoid mystery brands or eBay
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specials. Spend an extra $30 on quality
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plugs now or spend $1,500 later
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replacing catalytic converters and
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ignition coils. Habit number four, the
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warning light. wisdom. That amber check
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engine light isn't a suggestion or a
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minor annoyance. It's your engine's
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desperate plea for help before permanent
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damage occurs. I've seen drivers ignore
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check engine lights for months, thinking
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it runs fine, so it must be okay. Then
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catastrophic failure strikes, melted
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catalytic converters, scorched pistons,
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destroyed sensors, transmissions stuck
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in limp mode. Let me decode the most
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critical trouble codes that can save you
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thousands. P0171/P0174
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means your engine is running lean, air
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or fuel system problem requiring
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immediate attention. P 0300 million1
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indicates random misfires from ignition
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or fuel delivery issues. P420
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signals catalytic converter efficiency
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below threshold. Expensive replacement
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needed soon. P 0440/PP0455
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shows evap system leak, often just a
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loose gas, but can indicate serious
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vapor control problems. P0325
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means knock sensor malfunction. Your
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engine can't protect itself from
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destructive detonation. Every code
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starts as a $50 to $200 fix, but can
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escalate to $2,000 to $5,000 disasters
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when ignored. Buy a basic OBD2 scanner
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for $25 or get free scans at part
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stores. Knowledge is power and early
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intervention is profit. Habit number
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three, the timing belt time bomb. This
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habit alone justifies this entire video.
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When your timing belt fails, it doesn't
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give warnings, doesn't make noise,
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doesn't gradually deteriorate. It just
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snaps and instantly transforms your
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running engine into expensive scrap
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metal. If you own an interference
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engine, and most modern engines are
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interference designs, when replacing the
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timing belt, also replace the water
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pump, tensioner, and idler pulleys.
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You're already paying for labor access.
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Don't cheap out on related components
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that fail at similar intervals. Habit
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number two, the short trip destroyer.
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This habit kills more engines than any
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other driving pattern, yet it seems
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completely harmless. I'm talking about
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short trips where your engine never
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reaches full operating temperature. When
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you drive 1 to three miles repeatedly,
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school runs, grocery trips, short
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commutes, your engine oil never reaches
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its critical operating temperature of
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220° F. This prevents oil from burning
15:44
off moisture, fuel vapors, and
15:46
combustion contaminants. The result,
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condensation builds inside your engine,
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mixing with oil to create a milky sludge
15:54
that coats internal components and clogs
15:57
PCV systems. You won't see immediate
15:59
damage, but within months, you'll have
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corroded internals and stuck lifters. I
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once disassembled a pampered Toyota with
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only 75,000 mi that looked internally
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like it had run 400,000 mi without
16:12
maintenance. The owner was retired,
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drove gently, changed oil religiously,
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but never took highway trips. The
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solution? Take your vehicle on a 20 to
16:23
30 minute highway drive weekly. Get
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everything hot. Let the oil do its job
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and stop assuming that less driving
16:30
equals less wear. Half-warmed engines
16:33
wear faster than properly heated ones.
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Habit number one, the weight limit.
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Reality. The number one engine killer
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isn't maintenance neglect or age. It's
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treating your vehicle like a commercial
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hauling truck when it was designed as a
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passenger car. Every vehicle has a gross
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vehicle weight rating. The maximum safe
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weight including passengers, cargo, and
16:57
fluids. Exceed this rating and you're
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stressing every component, engine,
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transmission, cooling system, brakes,
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suspension, even the frame. I once had a
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customer load concrete bags into his
17:09
Corolla and attempt mountain driving.
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Within days, blown head gasket, cracked
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radiator, overheated transmission, and
17:18
complete engine failure. His moving
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truck mentality destroyed a reliable
17:23
car. Overloading creates multiple
17:26
failure modes. Engines run hotter and
17:28
work harder. Cooling systems struggle to
17:30
maintain temperature. Brakes fade
17:33
quickly. Transmissions overheat. and
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fuel economy plummets. Check your door
17:38
jam sticker for maximum payload and
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towing ratings. Respect those numbers
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religiously. Don't tow beyond capacity.
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Don't pile excessive cargo. And don't
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assume just this once won't cause
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damage. These 15 habits aren't just
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maintenance tips. They're the difference
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between a throwaway car and a
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millionmile machine. The choice is
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yours. Pay a little now for prevention
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or pay a fortune later for replacement.
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Smart drivers choose prevention every